A 1,214 Km run from New Norcia to Exmouth, lunch at
Geraldton and an overnight at a freecamp south of Carnarvon: We drove into Carnarvon for a quick look
also. On arrival at Exmouth, we checked
at the Visitor Centre and discovered the place was packed out - School
Holidays, and what better place to take the family! We managed to get one night at Yardie
Homestead, on the other side of the peninsula (we subsequently booked two more
nights in an overflow accommodation). The
main attraction here is Ningaloo Reef, and Heidi organised a boat tour to
snorkel on the reef and to swim with whale sharks. On this particular boat they also have a
number of research scientists, adding another dimension. They were interesting and happy to discuss their
particular area of expertise which, as may not surprise you, comprises of ocean
and reef ecosystems plus whale shark studies.
We had an extra day waiting for our boat tour so we went to Yardie Creek
National Park where we walked along the Gorge, visited the Myerling Visitor
Centre and lazed about on a beach or two.
Then the following day we went on the boat tour. We were picked up by bus, drove to Tantabiddi
Boat Ramp, where we were ferried out to our boat and then set off for a bit of
snorkeling. Plenty of reef fishes and
coral but sadly coral bleaching has taken its toll. While
we were snorkeling, a spotter plane found a whale shark, so we were hustled
back aboard and set off in pursuit. On
the way to it, we were organised into two groups and given our specific
instructions by our team leader as no more than ten people can swim around the
whale shark at any time. Once in the
water, said leader located the shark, brought us to it and we followed along as
it slowly (for a fish!) cruised foraging for plankton. What a terrific experience to be three or
four metres from an 8 metre fish just below the surface! We had a couple of dives at this shark (the
groups take it in about ten minute turns and there was also another boat) and I
thought that would be it, but we ended up observing four whale sharks, the
smallest at three metres long. But that
wasn't all, we also observed humpback whales nearby (the other team actually
had a mother & calf swim right next to them while they were observing a
whale shark!), I saw a sailfish leap clear of the water and others also
observed some turtles and a giant ray leap clear.
The scientists were busy taking photos, movies and gathering
any pertinent information on the whale sharks as research on these creatures is
in its infancy. They took water samples
and plankton samples plus gathered other data in relation to their particular
expertise, which they freely discussed with us, encouraging questions from any
and all. We were on the water about
eight hours and arrived back at the boat ramp pretty well exhausted! But what a totally unique experience - and a
sumptuous lunch provided as well! Being
privy to the research was a terrific bonus - it added so much. We rested well that night, as we planned an
early start to Karijini.
NB We were promised an email link to some of the underwater photos but none received at this stage, so the photos are a bit light on.
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