A Week in Alice

There is much to see and do in Alice Springs, plus some domestic duties that the convenience of a caravan park is very handy and a bit of relative comfort was welcome.  The self guided walking tour of Alice shows the city as it is today, modern convenience but with a sense of history as well.  The Todd Street Mall is the centre and this is where I watched The Bang Tail Muster parade:  Apparently it used to be a cattle drive through the centre of town but now is a civic parade.  A Bang Tail Muster is actually a muster of cattle which are tallied by cropping the hair on their tail (thus the term 'bang tail') to show they've been counted:  As it takes a couple of years to regrow, they can tell which cattle have been previously tallied.  The name for the event has stuck, though cattle no longer parade through the main street.

A walk up Anzac Hill gives a good overview of the city and the surrounding ranges.  The Gap refers to the opening in the range made by the Todd River, through with the Stuart Highway and the Ghan Rail travel as well as other facilities such as The Overland Telegraph originally with its subsequent evolved communication infrastructure.  Being a city it has the required Coles, Woolworths, Harvey Norman, Repco and service station chains.

The Telegraph Station is the original Alice Springs station restored to show life as it was in its early days.  It provided communications of course, but also acted as a supply centre including distributing supplies to Aborigines, a school, as well as having children boarders and a social hub for travelers.   There are also local walks setting out from the station, one which goes along the foot of the ranges and if you are lucky, you can see some rock wallabies on the hillsides.

The School of the Air started in Alice Springs and has grown out to other areas from there.  The Alice Springs School serves 120 pupils, the furthest being 1200 km away.  They now use modern communications so when a new student joins, they are provided with a computer and satellite dish so they can actually see the teacher and other students.  They have 2-3 get-togethers a year in which they participate in sports events, learn to swim and socialise with other children.  A map of Australia with other countries overlaid give an idea of the size of Australia:  Also, for the Bicentennial in 1988 students made a quilt square which was then sewn into a large quilt, which is displayed at the School.

The Royal Flying Doctor Service and the Women's Museum are very close to each other and give a good coverage of the respective background and contribution to improving Outback life:  The knowledge that essential health and emergency medical is now hours rather than weeks or months away is a very important factor for families.

The Desert Park gives an excellent example of the range of desert ecosystems in the broad area, as well as an excellent bird show!  It is amazing the subtle changes that create entirely unique ecosystems, as well as how complex something that at first glance a rather barren landscape can be. 

The Ghan and Transport Museums have excellent examples of how they have taken on the challenges presented by the Outback,  the Ghan of course providing a rail service right through the Centre, bringing goods within trucking distance of remote stations but not quite trucking as we know it over well constructed bitumen highways, but rather somehow managing to take a mechanical vehicle over tracks previously a challenge to bullock wagons.  One unique vehicle - the A.E.C Truck - was specifically developed in 1934 and is the first road train used in Australia.  It was a tractor and 3 trailers, eight driven wheels on the prime mover and each trailer had eight wheels.  The driver sat in an open seat next to the engine, with the radiator behind him, no doubt a hot, dusty and noisy job.  It had a payload of 40 tonnes.

Being back in civilisation also meant a 'pizza fix', which turned out to be easier said than done!  As I hadn't noticed any pizza shops, I scrolled through 'food' on my GPS, which actually has a separate section on pizza!  It listed at least six, of which four no longer exist, one was closed and the last was hard to spot driving, but the GPS homed in rather precisely!  So Rocky's Pizza & Fat Kebobs were more than happy to supply a large Italian pizza and very delicious it was (though a bit of overkill). 

I went to Trephina Gorge - Yeah, another spectacular natural feature, this one in the East MacDonnell Ranges with some terrific walks and stupendous views.  This was my last nite in the Red Centre, traveling the next day north to the Devils Marbles.

From Brisbane to Tennant Creek, around the Red Centre & down to Coober Pedy and back to Tennant Creek I have traveled some 6900 km in some 40 days.  I have stayed in caravan parks (powered site) 13 nights at an average cost of $21.30, Park camps 14 nights at an average cost of $3.60 and free camped 14 nites.  So to date 28 days at unpowered sites which help write off the costs of deep cycle batteries, regulator and solar panel, as well as providing extra flexibility in camping sites.  Here I must give full marks to the Northern Territory for their parks - they are great!  They provide the basics at a very reasonable cost and access world class natural features!  It is no wonder about 80% of the vehicles on the Stuart Highway are campers of one sort or another! 

From here it is on to Katharine and the north end of The Territory.

Meteorite Craters, Finke River and Painted Valley

Henbury Meteorite Craters

These craters are the result of a collision some 4,700 years ago.   Three main craters from 44 gal drum sized bits plus other smaller craters are clearly visible.  One larger crater is wetter for some reason, perhaps a fracture thru to the underground basin?  A very pleasant and peaceful setting, interesting to see and camping is allowed.

Finke River

Off the Stuart Highway there is a free camp site next to this river, which is the largest river in the Centre.  It starts in the W. MacDonnells at Glen Helen Gorge, where two rivers join to flow thru the Gorge and continues for some 690km to empty into Lake Eyre.  It is often dry, except for some waterholes, as are many of the streams and rivers in this part of Central Australia:  When in flood, however, it is a natural phenomena to be reckoned with.  I walked about a km down the riverbed, 1/2 km up into the surrounding plain and back to the campsite, coming across a disused cattle yard along the way. 

Rainbow Gorge

23 km of corrugated & dusty road, 4WD recommended but the Ranger assured me it was OK for my vehicle and worth the visit.  He is a knowledgeable gentleman and but for his information I'd have missed this beautiful spot.  It is one of the few areas where a layer of pure white sandstone can be seen.  A rugged, multicoloured ridge rises up from a claypan providing one more unique geological treasure.  Plans are being drawn up to provide more walking tracks and this involves consultation with the Aboriginal people as the area is a sacred site.

Hot Air Balloon Flight

At long last - after a couple of unsuccessful attempts over the years - an ambition fulfilled!  Why else would I be up at 0445 in 2 degree C temps?  We were picked up at our lodgings, driven to a potential take off point where they launched a small helium balloon to check winds:  Not good, so we drove off to another point, unloaded the balloon and commenced filling it with air - cold at first just to get it filled.  Then the burners are lit and slowly the balloon rises (but still anchored, to the bus actually).  We then pile into the basket and when ready (ie, after photos taken by ground crew), we slowly arise!  Rather noisy when the burners are alight but as well as helping the balloon to rise, it takes a bit of chill out of the air as well.  We then gently float over the ground, reaching 4,300 feet above sea level - about 2,000 feet above ground - at one stage. 

Everyone is busy snapping photos, cameras exchanged so couples/families can have group photos taken and a few roo are also spotted hopping about.  We watched the sun rise from the air which was pretty.  Nothing overly exciting, but then in a balloon 2,000 feet above the ground, well, that's a good thing:  Just gently drifting along watching the world go by.  It was all over flat ground, with the MacDonnell Ranges in the distance, like one other passenger I thought we'd be a bit closer.  Perhaps the mountains confuse the air currents to make it more exciting, or more likely, the insurance policy is exorbitant when you mention taking passengers over mountains. 

All too soon we landed - smooth landing - launched (literally!) ourselves out of the basket and helped fold & pack the balloon.  Then a glass of bubbly, breakfast and home again.  It was great to finally realise that ambition!  A few people commented they can now cross that off their bucket list:  I don't have a bucket list as such for fear of the implications when you cross off the last item!  Rather, the strategy of "OK, what else is there to do/see?".  So I am now another step closer to more new adventures, and The Northern Territory has plenty - saltwater crocs included, but I'll be careful in there territory.

Kings Canyon

What a spectacular area!  The Canyon Rim walk takes you into visual treasures you could never imagine:  The scope and scale of the phenomena that is Kings Canyon just cannot be captured on camera!  The landforms are many and varied along this track, the views of the Canyon outstanding and the Garden of Eden an ancient relict of millions of years ago.  The walk is moderately difficult but the track is good and you are rewarded with a fascinating myriad of features and landforms in this area.  Best to avoid the heat and start earlier in the day, as you can spend 4-5 hours easily basking in the glory of the landscape:  I've subsequently recommended to others undertaking this walk to pack their lunch - I wish I had done so myself!  Interestingly, the upper layer is white sandstone, but the eroded surfaces get covered with iron oxide blown about and clinging to the surfaces to give them the red colour:  Apparently the oxide is affixed by a fungus which binds it to the surface.  The rare spinifex pigeon lives in the area - look for the photo.

Kathleen Springs is 20 odd km down the road from Kings Canyon, well worth a visit.  The track in is very easy being designed for wheelchair access.  This is a large box canyon with plenty of plant growth and a spring at the end which attracts wildlife.  It was a favoured dry season camping area for Aboriginals, though they never camped too close to the spring so as not to deter game from coming to have a drink.  They did hunt game tho, being relatively plentiful and easily trapped in the canyon.  They also gathered plant foods which abounded in the area.  During the wet season when food & water was available in the broader plains, they would leave the area to 'rest' and venture out into them. 

Waterholes are found at the base of some of the sandstone outcrops, as the sandstone stores water and it seeps out slowly.  Thus these waterholes will contain water in all but severe drought.  They are found around Uluru, Kata Tjuta, Kings Canyon etc.  They are also often sheltered so contain plant & animal species unique to the damper environment. 

Uluru and Kata Tjuta

No matter what you hear, the first time you see Uluru it is quite spectacular and a unique experience.  I can't begin to describe it so will leave it to the photos to do so.  They have a  Ranger guided tour which is great, giving a good introduction to some of the many facets of Uluru, as well as a brief history and explanation of its significance to Aborigines.  From this tour I continued on, circumnavigating Uluru as the track is easy and it is a very worthwhile trip, tho it took me thru the heat of the day and glad to rest at the end of it!

The Interpretation Centre is very well set up, interesting and informative.  It discusses some of the Dreamtime Legends of the area, the traditional use of the area and the current management by a committee of Aboriginals and white fellas.  This combines modern land/park management concepts with traditional Aboriginal values, both protecting the area as well as allowing it to continue to be a major tourist attraction. 

Kata Tjuta is a must see, and while the Valley of the Winds track is a bit of a challenge, goes thru some great areas!  Being a bit more difficult, slow and easy does it, plus the extra time taken gives you a better insight into this varied area.  I understand there used to be a road right around Kata Tjuta, giving access to a much greater area, the road now only goes to the Valley of the Winds take off with the shorter Walpa Gorge walk turning off on the way in.  I did The Valley of the Winds walk early, saving the shorter walk for the heat of the day.

Uluru and Kata Tjuta are within 40km of each other but the geology is totally different.  Uluru is sandstone which has been tilted nearly vertical over time while Kata Tjuta is conglomerate consisting of rounded granite rocks and is only slightly tilted.  Both, of course, contain iron oxide, giving them the red distinctive colour.

What an amazing area this Red Centre is!  Distances are amazing, petrol prices are amazing, the sites amazing and there are still more to see!  Along the Stuart Highway I reckon three out of every four vehicles is a tourist - and someone told me the Victorians haven't left in force yet!  Australian tourists tend to be in the older age group (Grey Nomads), while overseas tourists are mainly young:  Certainly the Grey Nomads are many and varied as well as being quite a friendly lot.  Now it is on to Kings Canyon, then work my way back to Alice.

Coober Pedy

Being so close to this unusual town, I travelled the mere 700km (one way) to see it!  Unfortunately I probably didn't do it justice, staying only one day however The Old Timers Mine was fascinating!  Original diggings were halted and closed off in 1916 by persons unknown for reasons unknown:  Much valuable opal still remained thus the reasons remain a mystery.  In 1968 an underground dwelling was having a bedroom added and in the process broke thru into the old mine.  Recognising the tourist potential, the whole affair was then developed into The Old Timers Mine tourist attraction, and a great one it is.  It was expanded to include an underground museum and a shop, all dug out of the solid sandstone of the area.  This sandstone is very compact and doesn't need shoring up when tunneling into:  Pillars are left to provide support though.

The Northern Territory is blooming after a very wet summer; moving south into South Australia, however, it got drier and drier and had a very desert look about it.  On approaching Coober Pedy, a unique landscape begins to appear 30km north of the town:  This is the conical shaped piles of stone dug up from a mine.  It looks a bit extra terrestrial, thus a unique setting for Mad Max and other movies!  In the town itself there are verandahs fastened to the side of a hill, with a house/motel/bar/whatever dug into the hill.  Apparently the temperature remains a constant 23-25 degrees and flies won't go underground - why wouldn't you live there!  There are quite a few conventional houses as well, for which air conditioning is a must as summer temperatures are HOT. 

The Old Timers Mine.  The admission price is very reasonable with only a small additional charge to rent an iPod with a self guided tour installed and which contained a wealth of information.  The tour starts in the old mine, which was all dug by hand.  Displays and information give a good explanation as you go from station to station and over at least two levels.  The access shafts were designed for a specific individual with handholds & footholds carved into the side, the width & shape of the shaft exactly suiting the person using it.  When a seam of opal was found, it was carefully and tediously dug out by hand with a pick or other suitable tools, so as to not damage the gemstone.  While powerful machines do the main digging today (a demonstration on the surface was included), the opal seams are still winkled out by hand.  After the old mine you come up into the living quarters, which are left as they were in the 1970's.  In the photo of the girls bedroom, on the right hand side you can see where the intended extension broke through into the old mine.  There was also an underground Post Office, apparently the only one in the world.  A great tour!

Being the Opal Capital of the World, there are quite a few shops selling a wide variety of the product.  All too confusing for me, but interesting to look at.

Coober Pedy is in a bit of a downturn as seems to be common in many outlying towns and while the Opal Capital of the World apparently there is a dependence on tourism as well.  A major attraction, The Big Winch ("Oh, if you're going to Coober Pedy you MUST see The Big Winch!") was closed with a 'For Sale' sign on the door.  I never did find the Serbian Orthodox Church, which was written up as magnificent.  The information was vague and I ended up at the Stuart Highway, hot, tired and a bit grumpy so I turned north. 

North of Coober Pedy is The Breakaways, an interesting geological feature.  I stopped for a quick visit on my way back north.

The Western McDonnell Ranges

To just go back to The Devils Marbles briefly, I failed to mention that the dingo in the photograph was a semi-tame dingo, hanging about the area living off handouts.  Everyone who saw him took photos and those on the tour buses - well, it was one continuous clicking of cameras!

Two days from the Devils Marbles saw me in Alice Springs getting information on the area, getting some supplies and heading off for Ormiston Gorge campground.  There was still enough time for a quick run (returning on the same trail) to the ghost gum lookout, so named for the ghost gum perched on the rocky top next to it (and a beautiful gum it is too!).  Showers were available at this site and I needed one, which is why I choose this campsite - the alternative was a caravan park in Alice so it wasn't a difficult decision.  The next day was early up to the lookout, then dropping down to the river running thru the gorge, where there were still pools of water.  The cliffs are nothing short of magnificent!  Sheer, red, rugged and beautiful, set off by the odd ghost gum clinging to a lnely crag, or from the top.  This walk was scheduled for about an hour, it took me four as there are so many interesting little scenes to take in.  There is a longer Pound walk of 9Km, but I had heard you virtually had to swim across the river at one stage, so gave it a miss as I didn't want to get my cameras wet.  The two nights camped here gave me an excellent opportunity to see it in various stages of light, critical to catch some of the scenes at their best.

The following day took in Glen Helen Gorge, Redbank Gorge, the Ochre Pits and Serpentine Gorge and scenic overlook (a heart starting walk to the top of the hill, but great views!) and then to the site of the now disappeared Serpentine Lodge area for the night:  On the way in I got hung up on a rock in a dry river bed, which took a strenuous hour to work my way out, fortunately with the help of a German couple who turned up shortly after.  A day to catch up on chores at a rest area and currently in Alice for the Bangtail Muster on Monday, then off to Coober Pedy.

The Western McDonnels are truly stunning, the views continue for the 100+km trip in and the gorges are spectacular.  The colours, or should I say colour as it is mainly red, the landforms, the Range itself.  It all started 800 million years ago with a large inland sea depositing sand and fine iron oxide deposits, followed by subsequent upheaval and erosion forming rivers & gorges to get to its present form - and for that rock to rise up and get me hung up.

The Devils Marbles

Located ~ 110km south of Tennant Creek, these are the big brother version of The Pebbles;  While The Pebbles are the baby version, they are not necessarily cuter.  There is not much in between the two areas other than flat scrubby or grassy plain.  Trying  to imagine travelling through it as the early explorers and settlers had to is difficult, as it is so vast and featureless.  The Telegraph Station near Tennant Creek was a 'must see', being one of the oldest buildings in the Northern Territory.  It was a centre in the early days for travelers and Aborigines, as well as providing communication with the outside world in those days.

The Devils Marbles are scattered over a wide area, with a couple of outstanding outcrops, the main one next to the campsite.  They are the weathered remnant of a granite extrusion, formed by water seeping into the granite, dissolving the feldspar along fault lines mainly, resulting in the current striking phenomena.

The Devils Marbles is a very popular campsite, though many only stay for a single night and some wheel in, take a quick look and are gone again!  It has been lovely to afford the time to stay a few days and wander around the greater area (spinifex poking & stabbing legs not-withstanding).  There is a resident dingo that would have to be amongst the most photographed dingo in Australia!  He won't let anyone get within 2 metres, but he's pretty nonchalant otherwise.

The night sky is the billion star display the Outback is noted for and satellite spotting is popular.  The best night was three in the space of about an hour.

The last nite was spent with a fellow from Malta, a chap from Austria and myself - we chatted until after midnight!  And had a drop or two of red.  Onward toward Alice next.