At last - the opportunity to see the legendary karri and
jarrah forests of Western Australia!
This is the only place these trees are found naturally and only grow in
a relatively small belt where the rainfall is about 1100mm annually. Karri trees are the second tallest hardwood,
growing 90+ metres high. The smooth
mottled yellow trunk of a tall, straight tree is a beautiful sight; a stand is
stunning! Large karri trees have been
used as fire lookouts in the past, the tops being cut back, a hut built on it
for the towerperson and steel climbing rods spiraling up to the hut. Three of such trees are available for the
public to climb, the largest being the Bicentennial Tree, at 68 metres: I climbed the Gloucester Tree, only 60 metres
high. Jarrah trees are famous for their
rich red timber, which is very durable,
thus it is sought after for uses varying from sleepers to structural timber and
fine furniture. The bark is dark and
fissured , thus not nearly as beautiful as the karri trees but King Jarrah is a
spectacular tree to view.
So, on arrival in this wonderful forest, my first stop was
Shannon National Park, where it rained each of the four days I was there. Shannon was a millsite and town in the centre of the forest: The buildings no longer exist but many exotic
trees planted by previous residents make
it a pleasant camp. Between
showers short walks were undertaken and the 48 Km. Great Forest Trees Drive was
a 'must', with stops at the Shannon Dam and various scenic outlooks giving a
good overview of the forests.
Then onto Manjimup, a major town in this wooded belt, which
is also a thriving orchard area and boasts a truffle season as well. The Timber and Heritage Park gives a good
history of the area, with both outdoor and indoor exhibits. They had a model of a sawpit - a log is
placed over the pit with one sawyer below and one above, operating a two man
saw to cut boards; you don't want to be the chap underneath the log! The Giant Jarrah tree is only a short
distance from the Manjimup so like a moth to a flame...
Pemberton next, more forests and great campsites within: Pemberton also hosts many fine wineries. A trip on the tourist tram through the
forests - why not! That nite I camped at
the nearby Arboretum Campsite, whereupon suddenly descended five Trackmaster
caravans and their large 4WD towing vehicles, which parked nearby. A flurry of noisy activity and soon a large
fire was burning in the firepit in front of my van, surrounded by a dozen
people in camp chairs. Hard to ignore,
so I joined them for what proved to be an enjoyable evening of banter, advice
on great places to visit and the odd tall tale!
The weather was clear (and cool!) now, so getting about in the forests
was a pleasure and interesting to see that the previously logged forests fully
stocked with healthy regeneration! A day
trip to Windy Harbour, which is a popular spot south of Pemberton, but not very
exciting in the winter. It did yield
some good photos of the ocean and cliffs, however. But forgive me, I am raving on, I will leave
it to the photos to tell the rest. But I
gotta tell you just one last bit!
My last nite was spent in the Snottygobble Loop campsite,
where a chance conversation with a Park employee informed me about the nearby
Goblin Swamp - he couldn't understand
why it wasn't mentioned in brochures or by the Information Centres, but
insisted it is worthwhile visiting. And
so it was! It is a small area containing
large but tangled and twisted melaleuca trees, unlike anything I'd ever
seen. I refer you to the photos as I
cannot adequately describe it, but I can confirm; it is aptly named!
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