Perth - and Civilisation.

Continuing west toward Augusta, two nites were spent at Alexandra Bridge (Camps6 #287).  Met some nomads I'd previously met at Starvation Boat Harbour and new ones from Myalup for some amiable campfire chats in the evening.   

In Augusta, I visited Cape Leeuwin and toured the lighthouse - a fascinating and informative tour.    Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse is the tallest lighthouse on the Australian mainland (there are two taller lighthouses in Bass Strait).  The lighthouse was built in less than a year, is bedded in solid granite but is built of limestone, as limestone is easier to work with.  The light rotating mechanism was initially run on a similar basis to a grandfather clock, with a long weight on a cable descending down the center of the lighthouse, which apparently had to be wound up every four hours:  It has now been replaced by a small electric motor.  ascending the 176 steps to the outdoor viewing deck gives you the view you would expect, only better!   You would be safe in assuming the Indian Ocean and the Southern Ocean  - which meet at Cape Leeuwin - are competing for the most spectacular ocean vista.

Lunch, a tour of the town and stop at the Visitors Centre, where they told me of the magnificent karri forests along the coast -  then off to Conto Beach for the next few days.  The beach is quite a way from the campground, as I discovered when I set off to walk to it but never found it:  Mind you, I wasn't sure which direction it was and did a few circles before finally heading back to the van.  The karri forests were easier to find so some peaceful walks were enjoyed, plus a few more photos!!   I met Martin, another Tasmanian solo in a van similar to mine.  He informed me of a solo lady European tourist camped nearby who was just getting over a bout of gastro and he had bought some gastro tablets for her when he was in Margaret River earlier that day.  Before we left, we ensured she could look after herself, and she assured us she was now much better and could manage. 

To the beach!  That was at Prevelley, west of Margaret River, and a nice surf beach it is!  The town of Margaret River is also a vibrant town, now with some 120+ vineyards surrounding it in what was dairy country in the past.  It has turned into quite a cultural centre, with good food, art & crafts and, of course, fine wines.   

Many of the campsites have a short section of gravel road leading into them, so on the way to Potters Gorge in Wellington NP when my GPS told me to turn left off the bitumen onto a dirt track I didn't realise I was being hornswaggled up the wrong track until I climbed a  short steep pinch, surveyed the steeper, rough descent toward oblivion and decided continuing on would be a disaster!  I had to back down - quite a challenge - and when I got back to the bitumen, the GPS had the cheek to tell me to turn left and continue along the road I was on initially!   Potters Gorge campsite is in jarrah forests on the edge of Wellington Dam, where by chance Martin was also camped.  The weather was very cool and damp but the National Park Service supplied firewood and fireplaces to burn it in - warm is good! 

Onward to Martins Tank Lake in Yalgorup NP, but it  was closed for maintenance so I went to Heron Point (Camps6 #262), which now requires a fee year around:  Nice location but a bit basic for what they charge, I felt.  The next day I arrived in Perth, ending this part of the trip.

Tall Timber!

At last - the opportunity to see the legendary karri and jarrah forests of Western Australia!   This is the only place these trees are found naturally and only grow in a relatively small belt where the rainfall is about 1100mm annually.  Karri trees are the second tallest hardwood, growing 90+ metres high.    The smooth mottled yellow trunk of a tall, straight tree is a beautiful sight; a stand is stunning!   Large karri trees have been used as fire lookouts in the past, the tops being cut back, a hut built on it for the towerperson and steel climbing rods spiraling up to the hut.  Three of such trees are available for the public to climb, the largest being the Bicentennial Tree, at 68 metres:  I climbed the Gloucester Tree, only 60 metres high.  Jarrah trees are famous for their rich red timber, which is  very durable, thus it is sought after for uses varying from sleepers to structural timber and fine furniture.  The bark is dark and fissured , thus not nearly as beautiful as the karri trees but King Jarrah is a spectacular tree to view. 

So, on arrival in this wonderful forest, my first stop was Shannon National Park, where it rained each of the four days I was there.  Shannon was a millsite and town  in the centre of the forest:  The buildings no longer exist but many exotic trees planted by previous residents make  it a pleasant camp.  Between showers short walks were undertaken and the 48 Km. Great Forest Trees Drive was a 'must', with stops at the Shannon Dam and various scenic outlooks giving a good overview of the forests.

Then onto Manjimup, a major town in this wooded belt, which is also a thriving orchard area and boasts a truffle season as well.    The Timber and Heritage Park gives a good history of the area, with both outdoor and indoor exhibits.  They had a model of a sawpit - a log is placed over the pit with one sawyer below and one above, operating a two man saw to cut boards; you don't want to be the chap underneath the log!  The Giant Jarrah tree is only a short distance from the Manjimup so like a moth to a flame... 

Pemberton next, more forests and great campsites within:  Pemberton also hosts many fine wineries.  A trip on the tourist tram through the forests - why not!  That nite I camped at the nearby Arboretum Campsite, whereupon suddenly descended five Trackmaster caravans and their large 4WD towing vehicles, which parked nearby.  A flurry of noisy activity and soon a large fire was burning in the firepit in front of my van, surrounded by a dozen people in camp chairs.   Hard to ignore, so I joined them for what proved to be an enjoyable evening of banter, advice on great places to visit and the odd tall tale!  The weather was clear (and cool!) now, so getting about in the forests was a pleasure and interesting to see that the previously logged forests fully stocked with healthy regeneration!  A day trip to Windy Harbour, which is a popular spot south of Pemberton, but not very exciting in the winter.  It did yield some good photos of the ocean and cliffs, however.  But forgive me, I am raving on, I will leave it to the photos to tell the rest.  But I gotta tell you just one last bit! 

My last nite was spent in the Snottygobble Loop campsite, where a chance conversation with a Park employee informed me about the nearby Goblin Swamp -  he couldn't understand why it wasn't mentioned in brochures or by the Information Centres, but insisted it is worthwhile visiting.  And so it was!  It is a small area containing large but tangled and twisted melaleuca trees, unlike anything I'd ever seen.  I refer you to the photos as I cannot adequately describe it, but I can confirm; it is aptly named!

Valley of the Giants Treetop Walk

An amazing place in many ways, the least (to me) being the Treetop Walk.  First, I don't recall hearing of Tingle Trees,  but that is what this area contains, the only natural stands in the world.  Second, it is quite wet here, a climate required by the Tingle Trees.  Third, I thought the Treetop Walk was in jarrah and kauri forests, and last is the Treetop Walk itself, giving superb views of the forest.  Tingle Trees are ancient eucalypts, regenerate happily without fire, have very shallow root systems, are huge,  and have mainly been replaced through history due to drier climes and fires, features which later eucalypts have adapted to.  Tingle Trees grow to really big trees, claiming the largest girth of any tree (one giant measures 24 m at ground level) and claiming to be the third largest in the world (I'm guessing by volume, as Karri trees claim to be the third tallest in the world).   A fascinating forest type not found anywhere else in the world.  Click on the link below for more information:-

http://www.rainbowcoast.com.au/areas/walpole/gianttingle.htm

Now off to the jarrah and karri forests, which are a bit further north and west:  But I found the Tingle Trees so fascinating and unique they deserve a section of their own.

Albany & Vicinity.

Arrival in Albany!  The Information Centre pointed out a big weekend with the Classic Car Event, so being Wednesday, I booked into a caravan park (overpriced at the best of times, well & truly so with a loading for the Big Weekend!) for Friday and Saturday, then went to Cozy Corner freecamp for a couple of days - the forecast was two days of rain, so paying to sit in a caravan park wasn't in my plans, though I feel guilty about not contributing to the National Economy.   Cozy Corner is just that, tucked in behind the sand dunes, and a good thing too, as the wind & rain were fierce.  In the next camping bay along were a couple of Tasmanians, Yvonne and Gavin, in a bus they'd converted themselves; they were traveling with their two retrievers, so I got my dog 'fix' and they got a great skritch. 

On Friday I toured Albany in the morning, including attending a general auction:  It wasn't going really well though.  In the afternoon I booked into the caravan park and caught up on a lot of tasks so I could go to the Classic Car Event, which raced through downtown Albany on Saturday.   Arriving early I roamed among the many cars displayed before the race and there were many classics ranging in age but all in superb condition!  If that Triumph TR6 were mine I certainly wouldn't chance it in a race!  But race they did, the roar and the fumes - a revhead's dream.   On Sunday I toured the Anzac Memorial and Fort before heading east to check out Betty's Beach for a couple of nights. 

I was surprised by the few campsites on offer, even more surprised to get a decent one from the two remaining.  I met Brian & Sheila, who snaffled the prime spot, and who told me that there were fish to be caught off the nearby rocks.  Out came the rod etc. and a quick scramble over the rocks to try my luck - which was up to my usual standard so on this trip I have yet to clean a fish.  Monday morning was brilliant!  Not a cloud in the sky, so we sat in the sun most of the day pondering life, kids and the lovely snakkies brought out by Sheila.  On leaving the next morning I stopped again in Albany to provision and visit the Museum.  En route I visited the Whaling Station and Torndirrup NP before continuing to Parry Beach for my last night on the coast, as i am now heading inland to the jarrah & kauri forests.  Weather is, at best, described as woeful,at  worst *^%$*??+.  Never-the-less, tall timber beckons so onward to Shannon NP!