In Norseman, after discussions with the kind lass in the
Norseman Information Centre I planned a circuit up to Kalgoorlie &
Coolgardie, traveling east & south to Hyden to see Wave Rock and then
return to Norseman via the Granite & Woodlands Discovery Track. So north to the Goldfields!
Gold was discovered at Coolgardie in 1892 and Kalgoorlie in
1893 resulting in the Gold Fever which went on to develop the area: Of course, a substantial amount of gold
helped keep the fever alive. It is a
formidably dry area so water was actually more valuable than gold, the local
saying "You can live without gold but not water" being very
true. A pipeline supplying water from
Perth to Kalgoorlie was established in 1903, the long distance requiring pumping
stations along the way . The result of
water and gold resulted in quite a boom, as evidenced by some very grand
buildings in Kalgoorlie/Boulder (Boulder was a separate town close by and today
is virtually amalgamated with Kalgoorlie) and to a lesser extent in Coolgardie,
where gold ran out a while back. In
Kalgoorlie/Boulder is the Superpit, a large open cut gold mine, but before 1985
the situation was many underground mines competing with each other, with
profitability suffering. Alan Bond
started buying up mines to lead to the formation of the Kalgoorlie Consolidated Gold Mines - http://www.goldfieldstourism.com.au/Destinations/KalgoorlieBoulder.aspx?gclid=CMa-1Ymk-bYCFSZdpgodZxEARw
- which was able to implement the more efficient open cut system.
A tour of the main streets of Kalgoorlie, Boulder and
Coolgardie reveals some fascinating architecture, especially those buildings
surviving from the boom times. Mine
views were also a must, although the Superpit guided tour wasn't available the
few days I was there. There are very
interesting museums and I visited one in Calgoorlie which had a world class
bottle collection as well as other topical dispalys of the area: The iconic Coolgardie safe was displayed, of
course! The National Heritage Warden
Finnerty's Residence - http://www.nationaltrust.org.au/wa/warden-finnertys-residence - is another worthwhile visit, having been
built in 1903 by the contracting firm Bunnings, the fore runner of the national
Bunnings chain today. While driving about
Coolgardie, I went into the local Health Centre to inquire about a flu
shot: They aplogised, as I would have to
wait about 15 minutes as the Dr was seeing a patient at the moment! I was expecting to have to make an
appointment, IF I could get the vaccination at all.
Leaving for Wave Rock I headed east and as the Wheatbelt was
only slightly further east, I decided to travel through it a bit also.
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