Monday, 1 April 2013

Yorke Peninsula, South Australia



A local chap was surprised to see a Tasmanian, "Not too many people go out of their way to come down here" apparently,  "Its neither here nor there."  Yorke Peninsula - about 250Km by 50Km, is a flat, limestone over basalt extension shaped like a leg extending into the gulf between the Adelaide side and the Eire Peninsula.  It is mainly a grain growing area and they boast there is a bit of the Yorke Peninsula in most Australian beers.  The coastline has excellent views, good fishing (supposedly), with blue crabs a specialty and being 2-3 hours from Adelaide, the Barossa etc. it is a regularly holiday spot for them.  Many have shacks along the coast and from  the number of newer houses one would guess an increasing permanent population, as it would be a great place to retire.  Many of the original buildings are of a coral coloured limestone and are beautiful, tho many are derelect as the story I was told is that there are few stonemasons available to repair them.

On arrival, I stopped at Kadina , a fully serviced town with an excellent Information Centre where they helped plan my stay.  There are a number of camping areas along the coast, managed by the Council and permission is needed to camp on them:  Most require a fee but there are a few free camps as well.  For the first week I stayed at Council campsites, having purchased a weekly pass.  The gravel roads - especially the last leg to the coast - tended to be very corrugated and the camps basic but they were on the coast and the views great.  Weather has been iffy at best but with the winds creating a lot of waves I took some of the best seascape photos ever, as there is a shelf out into the water so breakers start at its edge and form a series into the shore.  Swincer Rocks proved best, and even then, after a couple of hours the winds died down and seas less dramatic. 

Let me digress here and go back nearly 50 years, when I chanced upon an artist painting seascapes, which really caught my eye.  In the course of conversation I mentioned they were very beautiful but I could never afford one.  Well, from out of nowhere came his partner, stating in no uncertain terms the fellow had spent years perfecting his techniques and they were in fact good value!  I agreed the value was there and I'd buy one if I could but I just couldn't afford one.  When I took up photography I thought I could get similar seascapes but found it difficult indeed and am happy to have finally achieved that goal.

I only spent one night at Swincer Rocks, moving from there to Barker Rocks on the recommendation of another Grey Nomad, similar in outlook but the wind had died down - until around midnite of the second night!  I woke up as the van was shaking violently and pulled the pop top down as it was taking a beating.  I then heard people outside in the adjacent van and went out to see if they needed help; they certainly did.  Their awning had blown over the top of their van and they were trying to stop it from wrecking anything on top of the van, or along the side the wind had blown it, as the metal leading edge was flapping against the far side of the van rather violently.  Eventually the owner decided the only way to prevent more damage was to cut it free:  It was pretty well ruined by this stage anyway.  So standing on a couple of white buckets I reached up and cut it free, we secured it to a couple of posts and went off to get what sleep we could in the wild conditions.  In the morning we screwed the main rail back onto their van which had been nearly ripped free, so they could drive off to a repair place and then we had a coffee.  It was then they told me that he had a bad shoulder as the result of a recent broken arm and they wouldn't have been able to secure it on their own. 

From here, as per my plan, I went to Innes National Park, which is at the southern tip of the Peninsula and it was great!  The rugged coastline, near and far islands, vast beaches - comparable to the Great Ocean Road!  Surprisingly few other tourists, perhaps as a long weekend had just passed and Easter was only a few days away.  The scuddy weather tended to kept me close to the van at times but with plenty of time I eventually got to the best spots - some of which I missed the first time through.  E.g. they highlight the unique Stainless Steel Lighthouse, which  in my view is rather plain and thus just another lighthouse.  But after seeing most everything else I thought I'd check it out and discovered one of the most scenic views in the Park! 

For Easter I'd booked a site at Corny Point Caravan Park - Corny Point was named by Matthew Flinders, who thought it looked like a corn on a foot.  It is a popular fishing area but the shallow shelf requires driving over it to deeper water to launch a boat and for this they use tractors!  Here I met up with another Grey Nomad staying at Turton Point so we explored a bit, including trying out the seafood basket at the Marion Bay Pub, which was excellent!  Not a snipped bag of frozen bits poured into the deep fryer this, but proper fresh seafood and delicious!    Over Easter many families filled the park for the holidays and thus very active!  Kids, dogs, late night socialising - a welcome change from the quiet few weeks previous!  Being Monday today, they are busy packing to leave, children gathering in groups to say goodby to newfound friends and parents preparing for the 2-3 hour drive home, confined with children who'd been running free for the last few days.  I will be leaving tomorrow as the roads will be quiet again by then.  So Goodby, Yorke Peninsula, and Thank You to all those friendly people there!  I probably won't get back but glad not to have missed it.

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