Passing through Hall's Creek, I stopped at the Visitors
Centre and managed to book a flight over the Kimberley's from Kununurra a
couple of days hence. I arrived in
Kununarra and booked into a caravan park
- spot with a water view - and awaited my Kimberley Experience Flight.
The Gibb River Road goes thru the Kimberley's from Kununurra
to Derby, and while very scenic and interesting (I am told), it is also rough,
requiring a sturdy, high clearance four wheel drive vehicle, which my HiAce is
not! Successful businesses at either end
do a roaring trade in repairing damaged vehicles, vans & trailers that are supposedly sturdy enough to handle the
road. For the most part, the
Kimberley's are remote, rugged and not
very productive. So an extensive flight to
view the area was my choice and this was a six hour tour including a couple of
stops. The Kimberley's cover an area
about the size of Germany, our pilot/guide informed us on takeoff, as we left
Kununura heading NW toward Wyndham, following the Ord River and over much of
the irrigated area. On reaching the
coast we flew west along it and over a couple of wilderness resorts, where the
only access was by plane or boat, and the prices ranged from $1,700 - $3,000/nite. The area is certainly wilderness! We continued working our way west along the
coast over lovely beaches and bays, including an oyster farm, where oysters are
seeded and then grown in cages to produce the cultured pearls for which the
area is famous. So far much of the
country looked reasonably flat and very sparsely vegetated.
Turning inland from the coast, the terrain below was more
rugged. Some rivers had cut steep gorges
and we flew over the waterfalls which were, well, gorgeous! As they had some water flowing it made it
more interesting. Passing over King
George Falls we continued to our first stop on The Mitchell Plateau, where the
air terminal and facilities were very welcome after three hours travel in a
small plane: Being in a wilderness,
these facilities were in character.
We then continued to Mitchell Falls on our way to the next
stop, Drysdale River Station, for lunch.
While 'only' a hamburger and drink, a superb meal it was! As stated earlier, this country is not very
productive and stations find it hard to survive: The fact is some don't, but those like
Drysdale who have, did so by expanded into the
tourist trade. It is perhaps 50
Km off the Gibb River Road, but well patronised as it offers food, fuel,
accommodation and a real outback station experience. While a bit basic compared to the wilderness
camps on the coast, it is more in keeping with its pioneering spirit, as
exemplified by the blue phone in an old fridge.
From here we flew back to Kununurra over a more interesting
terrain, with hills, bluffs and broken country below. The pilot/guide pointed out El Questro
Station, which today is a wilderness retreat, and very popular, so much so that
you have to book about a year in advance.
Apparently Nicole Kidman, when filming the movie "Australia"
wanted to stay there but didn't book far enough in advance and was
disappointed. We continued on over Emma
Falls (which at this time of day was in shadow) and back to Kununarra,
completing our unique aerial Kimberley experience.
I then spent two nites at the Lake Argyle Resort and Caravan
Park. Lake Argyle is Australia's largest
body of fresh water, some 7-9 times larger than Sydney Harbour. Its main purpose is to provide a storage
reservoir to supply water in the dry season, the dry season being virtually an
annual drought, prohibiting crop production.
Large tracts of flat land (around 7,500 Ha.) around Kununurra are thus
able to be farmed with the resulting irrigation. Initially cotton (devastated by insects) and
rice (eaten by magpies & other birds) were tried but not feasible. Other crops were tried and today melons,
fruit, seedcrops, sugar cane and sandalwood are successfully grown. The Ord River Dam, which created Lake Argyle, cost around $20 million to build in
1971, and the crop of sandalwood is estimated to be worth some $5 billion
dollars.
But I digress. Lake
Argyle has a large number of freshwater crocodiles and a large number of fish
on which they feed: No saltwater crocs
(the dangerous ones) can live in fresh water so the waters are safe to swim
in. They are also pure enough to drink
from. So, as we set off on the tour, a
freshwater croc was soon spotted and became the star of thousands of
photos! Soon after we spotted a rare
rock wallaby, who enjoyed similar instant stardom. We continued our tour, with our skipper also
being an excellent guide and giving us facts and figures along the way - for
example, enough water flows out of the Lake each day to supply all of
Australia's drinking water, and even yet, five times that amount is lost to
evaporation (at least I think that's what he said). Some of the larger islands contain trapped
native animals that are now being used as a control group to study changes in
evolution. We saw only a small - but
representative - portion of the lake and this included some of the fish, which
also became instant stars, though they were cunning enough to only show up if
they were fed.
After the cruise we were driven to the nearby Durack
Homestead, the Durack's being the original settlers of the station and who were
the visionaries behind the Ord River Dam.
The homestead was in the area to be flooded and thus dismantled, every
stone numbered and re-assembled at its current location above the flood
waters. Unfortunately, the waters rose
more quickly than anticipated and most of the other items meant to be relocated
were lost.
Kununarra is the centre of much to see and do and quite a
modern town. The base population of
around 7,000 more than doubles in the tourist season. The young lass who filled my gas bottle had
moved from Perth seven years ago and loves the place with a passion. The pilot/guide is a seasonal worker who
follows work south during the off season but can't wait to get back in the
tourist season. Yet I only stayed three
days, being a bit travel weary and not motivated enough to see the Bungle
Bungles, which everyone states is a 'must see'.
I did, however, visit the Sandalwood Factory!
Sandalwood oil is valuable and used in perfumes, beauty and
skin care products. Sandalwood grows
naturally in Australia, and while once threatened with over exploitation is now
managed on a sustainable basis. Indian
sandalwood is used in the plantations as it is more productive, as well as
having an increased demand with shrinking resource in its natural habitat. Some 7,500 Ha have been planted in Western
Australia, Northern Territories and Queensland, with potential for another
15,000 Ha in the NT if/when the Ord River Scheme is expanded to supply
irrigation to the Keep River Plains.