Thursday 14 June 2012

Katherine Gorge (Nitmiluk NP)

There are nine gorges in this section of the Katherine River, walking & hiking tracks covering much of them which - other than the 4.7 km loop up to a lookout and back to camp - too much for me.  So I booked the Breakfast Cruise at the helpful Information Centre.  This is an excellent cruise, a substantial breakfast and all the coffee you can drink!!  It starts at 0645, a bit dark early on for photos, however the views of the Gorges in the early light are terrific.  We boated across the two lower gorges while the sun was rising and while it all looks very beautiful, the light is too contrasty for good photos:  My theory is the air is very clear, free of dust & other particles, thus creating a great deal of contrast.  As they say, "You had to be there", and I was!

The sandstone here is more of an orange, not the deep red of the W MacDonnell's but the landforms are super, the water adds another element and they are spectacular in their own way.  The gorge is deep, the sides are very steep and in some areas undercut, providing caves, many the home of bats during the day; some of the passengers weren't overly excited by our venture into a couple of them.  The river flows year around, being fed from waters stored in the surrounding tablelands feeding springs that supply the water. 

We travelled up to the top of the first gorge while having breakfast, then walked to another boat that took us through the second gorge.  The walk between provided excellent views and photo ops as well.  The cruise takes about two hours and was certainly a great way to see Katherine Gorge.

Further north is Edith Falls, part of the same NP but a different river and a 100km drive from Katherine Gorge.  At the campground, water cascades down a small waterfall into a very popular and accessible swimming hole.  A walking track goes upriver to another waterhole - also a popular swimming hole - and loops around back to the campground.  This track was steep and rough in places and at the crossing up near the top swimming hole some infrastructure was being repaired/replaced after recent floods damaged footbridges and some of the track.

Two nites were spent at each camp before heading north to Litchfield NP.  The increase in tourist traffic is very noticeable so I have been getting into campsites as early as possible as they are tending to fill up later.  Earlier in Alice Springs I commented on the number of tourists and was told that as it was only just starting to get cold down south the season was only about to begin!  There are a surprising number of WA and QLD vehicles about as well, I guess it is the time of year to visit the Top End.


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