Sunday 24 June 2012

Darwin

There is not much doubt as you travel up the Stuart Highway that the route was initially discovered by John McDouell Stuart - it took him a number of expeditions but he finally made it to Darwin and the road & rail followed his route.  Darwin, the northernmost point in my travels, rather apprehensive because on a map it looks pretty spread out, thus easy to get lost in (I worry a lot).  But with a trusty GPS, Oh Dear.  Mostly it's good, but on the odd occasion it tells you where to turn just after you pass the junction:  Other times it tells you just as you approach the street BEFORE your turn.  Sort of rattles you in a strange town.  But Darwin - it outdid itself!  It made me turn the street after, then tried to bring me along a service road that didn't exist.  I went back (on THE Stuart Hwy), turned left as instructed and it suddenly started screaming to do a U-turn:  I looked quickly at the huge sign in front of me & saw "Resort" and figured it brought me to the wrong place, I drove off to a safe place and pulled over as I decided to ring the caravan park for instructions.  Followed said instructions right back to the "Resort" sign, where I had to do the U-turn and yes-it was my destination after all - it is a resort catering to a range of accommodation including unpowered van sites.  I'm surprised the GPS didn't give me a cynical "Welcome to Darwin" message.

Two things you learn as soon as you arrive in Darwin (GPS bumpf not-with-standing):-
1.  Darwin was bombed during WWII, and
2.  Darwin was devastated by Cyclone Tracy in 1974. 

While you probably knew these two facts it is worth visiting the museums' excellent displays on these topics.  The Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory is excellent, covering a broad range of topical NT art and history including a small dark room where you can hear an actual recording of Cyclone Tracy - an eerie experience to say the least.  Unfortunately no photos were allowed, I'd loved to have got a photo of Sweetheart, the great big crocodile they have on display there.  The Darwin Military Museum has an excellent animated film of the bombing of Darwin, as well as historical photos and stories of that time. 

Downtown Darwin is not unusual, provided you are used to seeing pubs with names like "The Ducks Nuts Pub".  A few historical buildings were restored but by and large it is post-1974.  The waterfront and pier were visited, an excellent place for lunch or dinner, with cool breezes and a great ocean view.  While many people were fishing off the pier, not many were catching fish.    Perhaps one's time could be better spent at the excellent wave pool, a great many kids certainly thought so.  I did dip a toe in as it were, in the Top End ocean, as they have an area kept free of crocs, stingers and other assorted unhealthy inhabitants of these waters. 

I toured the WWII Oil Storage Tunnels also, constructed at great expense but never really used.  After the tour I was talking to the operator, who stated it looked like a cold winter as it was already cold; meanwhile I'm soaked in perspiration, rather pleased with the news actually.  He went on to tell me in February people climb up the water towers & jump off rather than face the continuing heat & humidity.

This is now the northern most point in my travels, certainly a city worth visiting but too hot even in winter for this Norwegian to contemplate living here.

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