Sunday 21 July 2013

Exmouth & Ningaloo Reef


A 1,214 Km run from New Norcia to Exmouth, lunch at Geraldton and an overnight at a freecamp south of Carnarvon:  We drove into Carnarvon for a quick look also.  On arrival at Exmouth, we checked at the Visitor Centre and discovered the place was packed out - School Holidays, and what better place to take the family!  We managed to get one night at Yardie Homestead, on the other side of the peninsula (we subsequently booked two more nights in an overflow accommodation).  The main attraction here is Ningaloo Reef, and Heidi organised a boat tour to snorkel on the reef and to swim with whale sharks.  On this particular boat they also have a number of research scientists, adding another dimension.  They were interesting and happy to discuss their particular area of expertise which, as may not surprise you, comprises of ocean and reef ecosystems plus whale shark studies.  We had an extra day waiting for our boat tour so we went to Yardie Creek National Park where we walked along the Gorge, visited the Myerling Visitor Centre and lazed about on a beach or two. 

Then the following day we went on the boat tour.  We were picked up by bus, drove to Tantabiddi Boat Ramp, where we were ferried out to our boat and then set off for a bit of snorkeling.  Plenty of reef fishes and coral but sadly coral bleaching has taken its toll.   While we were snorkeling, a spotter plane found a whale shark, so we were hustled back aboard and set off in pursuit.  On the way to it, we were organised into two groups and given our specific instructions by our team leader as no more than ten people can swim around the whale shark at any time.  Once in the water, said leader located the shark, brought us to it and we followed along as it slowly (for a fish!) cruised foraging for plankton.   What a terrific experience to be three or four metres from an 8 metre fish just below the surface!  We had a couple of dives at this shark (the groups take it in about ten minute turns and there was also another boat) and I thought that would be it, but we ended up observing four whale sharks, the smallest at three metres long.  But that wasn't all, we also observed humpback whales nearby (the other team actually had a mother & calf swim right next to them while they were observing a whale shark!), I saw a sailfish leap clear of the water and others also observed some turtles and a giant ray leap clear. 


The scientists were busy taking photos, movies and gathering any pertinent information on the whale sharks as research on these creatures is in its infancy.  They took water samples and plankton samples plus gathered other data in relation to their particular expertise, which they freely discussed with us, encouraging questions from any and all.  We were on the water about eight hours and arrived back at the boat ramp pretty well exhausted!  But what a totally unique experience - and a sumptuous lunch provided as well!  Being privy to the research was a terrific bonus - it added so much.  We rested well that night, as we planned an early start to Karijini.    

NB We were promised an email link to some of the underwater photos but none received at this stage, so the photos are a bit light on.


1 comment: